The Traveler’s Lament………”Been There, Done That”
Marty and I are into our second day of our third circuit of the Baltic Sea and its marvelous ports of call. Marty has made these stops a half dozen times or more during his 54 cruises in the past three plus years. While I had stopped at these same destinations twice each in the past, our first circuit was still exciting for me. There was a certain degree of anticipation with each stop knowing the sights I would see and the experiences I would enjoy. It was fun.
A second time around took some of the luster off of the shiny side of the apple and my interest became one of looking for new sights and things to do. In most cases, such was hard to come by given the time restrictions of a one day port visit. Now that we’re into our third circuit, I can’t really suggest that the upcoming port calls find me with a lot of excitement and explorer’s interest. In the end, I will know that I will enjoy strolling the same streets and touring the same buildings again but it won’t really be the same. That is, it won’t be the same this time but next time, on our fourth circuit of the Baltic, my Dottie will be here to see all of this for her first time. I will be able to share her excitement and see all of these marvelous sights through her inquisitive eyes. For the first time. Our “second time around” is turning out to be loaded with good times and new experiences for both of us.
Travelers finding themselves in my situation need to be creative in making this cruise even more exciting than the last one.
For instance: Today Marty and I “crashed” the party that the ship’s Master (some call him Captain) threw for the “Latitude Club” members. This is an exclusive club limited to those who have sailed in an NCL ship at least one time before this cruise. As an enhancement staff person, Marty isn’t turned away from such gatherings and I walked in to shake hands with the Captain and his staff in Marty’s shadow. We drank the captain’s drinks, ate the Captain’s canapés, and listened attentively when the administrative staff of the ship were introduced, sans the captain. He was at the door to shake hands with supposed Latitude Club members and then disappeared; probably to keep the ship from sinking or something of that magnitude that Captains do on an hourly basis. While the music provided by one of the dance orchestras was nice (no one danced), it seemed the main reason for the gathering was to sell members on taking another cruise right away. A half hour pep talk was given by one of the cruise sales staff. In my opinion, it was like preaching to the choir. All present were veteran cruisers who will probably take yet another cruise anyway. I should note that of a reported 600 club members on board, it appeared that less than 100 chose to come to the party. They were probably enjoying themselves more bundled up on the wind swept decks trying to catch the little bit of sunshine that escaped occasionally through diminutive holes in the sky full of threatening looking clouds.
One of the officers came to our table and we invited her to sit down for a chat. Her name was Carolyn and I told her that her name would be etched on my Ginko stimulated memory forever because my favorite younger sister is named Carolynn. Her assignment was Chief of Housekeeping. Some ships call this position Hotel Manager because her staff includes the stewards that clean the staterooms, change the linen and keep clean towels in the loo. I told her that her crew was doing a great job down at the bottom of the ship on our floor. I didn’t add that often our room is not “done” until just before the late dinner service. None the less, the lady had a big job and one that all of the passengers profit from.
I was able to ask Carolyn Sir (she had two strips on her epaulets) how many passengers we had on board. She was quick to tell us that 2601 souls are on our current cruise. On asking my second obvious question, She new that exactly 2,830 passengers could be accommodated on the Norwegian Jewel. Marty and I figured that would mean that all of the fold up cots hanging on cabin walls, like in our cabin, would be in use. Since Marty and I fill our cabin to overflowing, I don’t think I’d like to sail as the third person in stateroom 5596.
Back to the role of the becoming disinterested traveler, one might suggest that there’s a ton of stuff to do on a cruise with something for every interest. Let’s see now; what might that be. Today the “Freestyle Daily” implored we passengers to try one of the following on for size:1. How about a Comedy Workshop for “Class Clowns” featuring the cast of “Second City”, an improvisational group entertaining onboard, as teachers. The announcement says that one should come ready to discover how naturally funny you already are. I’ve been called a lot of things over the years but never “funny”. Maybe that’s for someone else.2. Then there’s the “Grand Finale Art Auction with a last chance to collect “the art you really love.” There will be free champagne and a raffle for a $500 bid credit. I’m not into raffles but the champagne sounds like a possibility. I’ll keep that in mind. What do you want to bet there’ll be another “Grand Finale….” or the same thing with another name before the end of this cruise?3. Would you like to show off your talents on the main stage of the Stardust Theater. Come on down an do your thing with the stage band ready to back up your vocal, soft shoe shuffle or what have you. The thing that amazes me is that every cruise I’ve been on has asked for passengers to perform in “Talent Shows” and there are always people who clammer for the opportunity. I went to one of the “talent” shows once and was thrilled to hear a ninety-two year old retired school teacher read a poem extolling the virtues (?) of our current president. I don’t think I’ll go again.4. For you sports there will be a Texas Hold ‘em tournament at 10 AM Or while you’re in the sinning’ area you can sign-up for the qualifying rounds of the slot and black jack tournaments. It only costs $15 to register for the action. He who loses the most doesn’t win; it’s the other way around. Not for me I’m afraid.5. Athletes of the world, your attention please. At 8:00 AM in the Gym there will be a complimentary “Stretch Class”. I think that means for those who show up you will be complimented on how great you look in your exercise outfit (which may be a bit of a stretch).6. Did you know that you can attend a lecture on the finer points of playing the game of cards called bridge. If you pass the daily quiz you can come back in the afternoon and play the game. You don’t even need to bring a partner for the game. The management kindly provides fourths when needed (that‘s where I come in. You were probably wondering how I got this cushy job).7. At 9;30 AM there’s a “Review Dance Class”, with Jack and Carol. If you don’t know how to dance don’t come. I mean, what’s to review if you ain’t already got it? Now at 3:00 PM you can learn how to Cha Cha with Vlad and Alina. It sounds as though it might be and Eastern European version of the Cha Cha but if you don’t know it can’t hurt. Can it?8. Once you athletic types have stretched, you can go out an play tennis at 10:00 AM, Dodgeball at 11:00 AM and Basketball at noon.9. If that’s not enough, Professor Kinnaird will tell you all you ever wanted to know about “Why England is Protestant” . Or, an hour earlier he will let you in on the little known facts about European and Russian Religious buildings. Or, in private consultation, he is known to be available to tell you almost everything about anything you don’t know.10. And if that still isn’t enough to keep you occupied and your brain all atwitter, at 1:00 PM Matt Bloomberg will tell you all you need to know about buying your next camera. This will be especially relevant if you’ve noticed that everyone on the ship seems to have a fancier looking camera than the new one you just bought at Wal-Mart before leaving home.
In the afternoon, things really get exciting. We have “Piano Melodies with Vladimir”, a musician who plays by the hour without ever looking at the keyboard or stopping between songs; “Music Mania” with DJ Pedro; “International Dance Hits with the Ironics”. a great quartet with two very talented girl singers; “Smooth Melodies” with the Alambre Trio, three talented men who sing and make a wonderful sound; “Karoke Blast” with who ever shows up; and Singer/Guitarist RJ “Red”. It’s great if you like music. If you don’t, you can go to your cabin.
Come to think about it, which I obviously haven’t before sitting down to compose this too wordy epistle, being on a cruise ship is a nice place to be. Oh yes, and then there’s breakfast, lunch and dinner plus brunch, tea time and midnight buffet and a Frosty Freeze type ice cream machine that runs 24/7. And for the ever thirsty and/or those who aren’t having a good time yet, we have eleven bars that never seem to close. Happy cruising!
My love to all,
Grandpa Bill, Dad, Bill and Mr. B
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Saturday, July 19, 2008
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
10 July 2008
10 July 2008
Swedes will tell you that Stockholm is Europe’s most beautiful capital. By my observation after three visits, they may be right. But then, I haven’t visited all of Europe’s capital cities. Stockholm is unique in that it is built on fourteen small islands. As the city grew over the centuries, the locals just built a bridge to another island and planted more homes and business buildings. Nearly a third of the city is devoted to parks. Squares and airy tree lined boulevards, along with water ways that seem to be everywhere, do make Stockholm different and quite handsome. Yet the city is a bustling metropolis with glass and steel skyscrapers everywhere but all within a five minute walk from twisting medieval streets and water side promenades.
The Gamia Stan district, situated on the island of Stadsholmen, is Stockholm’s old medieval town that emerged in the 13th century and is home to the present Royal Palace with areas open to the public and a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon on weekdays. The Royal Palace is one of the largest royal castles in the world. It contains 680 rooms and is till in use by the royal family. A Stone wall nearby, built in 1250 AD, gave the city its characteristic shape of a heart. The Stork Yrkan cathedral, located in the oldest quarter of the city, was built in 1279 and is used for royal weddings, baptisms and coronations and open to the public.
During our day in port, I gathered a map from the greeters on the dock and headed into town. Since this would be my first stop in four during the next month, I decided I needed first to find an ATM to get some Swedish Kronor, second find a post office to buy stamps and mail some letters, and third to find an internet café to catch up on whatever might be in my lap top. The first two were easy, the last impossible. I asked several people along my route where I could find each of my destinations. All were helpful with the first two but only one had a possibility for me to follow. The suggestion was made that there might be an internet café at the ferry terminal that I had past on my walk.
I returned to the ferry terminal to find no internet café. What I did find was a snack shop that displayed a beer I had never heard of before. The shop had some outside tables where I could watch the terminal traffic flow by so I sat myself down in a sunny spot and enjoyed my Swedish Beer, this time a half liter. The people flowing off of the Helsinki Ferry reminded me that a guide had talked about the advantages Swedes gained by taking the ferry to Helsinki, Finland to do most of their shopping. The cost of the one hour ferry ride was more than compensated by the significant difference in prices on almost everything imaginable. Everyone off loading from the ferry was loaded down with big plastic bags, ratty looking suitcases on wheels and push carts. One couple that stopped to rest in front of my table was pushing a heavy duty hand truck loaded with cases of canned goods and beer. The load was almost more than the mad could handle. The lady in the twosome had a thirty inch suitcase on wheels that bulged to the point that it looked like it might explode. By their antics and equipment I guessed that their quick trip to Helsinki was a common occurrence. I recalled that the guide also told us that laws regarding the public consumption of alcohol are very strict in Sweden. For that reason many folks use the ferry to Helsinki as a conveyance to party time.
The weather for the most part has been sunny and almost warm. I wore a wool shirt into town today and it would have been perfect except that I am a vigorous walker and I could have gone with something lighter. A brisk wind for the last couple of days has made it uncomfortable for my fellow passengers to sun bathe, but they do it anyway. After lunch today I stripped to my bathing suit and basked in the sun sans breeze. Luckily I woke from a short nap and covered up. The warm sunshine that lulled me to sleep was already beginning to do its work on my freckled skin. A few more quikies in the sun like today and I’ll look like a real sun worshipper.
Those who enjoy sunlight would really enjoy the Baltic Sea in June. Official sunrise today, according to the ship’s bulletin, was 3:37 AM with sunset scheduled for 10:04 PM. As we travel eastward and more to the north the days will be even longer. I recall the pleasure my Russian friends had during a trip in 1989 when they took me out on a river boat at Leningrad ( now St. Petersburg) at midnight to show me that you could read a newspaper by the “midnight sun”. I could.
The Norwegian Jewel sailed away from the Stockholm pier with no bands playing, no serpentines floating down from joyful passengers, as a matter of fact, not a single soul on the dock once the landing lines were released. In the silence of the moment, broken only by the ships deep horn sounding its farewell, a sky full of seagulls appeared as if on cue. The gulls soared, dived and squawked as if the local chamber of commerce had hired them to gull lull us back to the dock to spend some more money with local merchants. We’ve all seen the spectacle of gulls following fishing boats into shore knowing full well that the gulls were there to feed off of the remains of fish cleaning. I looked over the side of the ship to see if staff was feeding but saw nothing of the sort. I could only conclude that the gulls simply liked us……….they really liked us!
Helsinki, Finland was our next port of call. My vivid memories of my past visit to Helsinki was one that remembered a quiet water front scene with blonde teenagers hanging with friends all looking wholesome and neat. It was evident from this visit that my limited vision related to the area where Dee and I stayed following a visit to Russia in 1990. Actually, the visit was marred by the fact that our Soviet visas were not returned to us when we left Moscow for Helsinki. Our intent was to return to Moscow to catch our “paid for” flight back to New York. When we arrived at Helsinki we discovered our lack of visas and immediately tried to phone Troitsk for help from our friends. Soviet telephones were never known to work very well and we never made contact. I spent most of our three day visit scurrying around trying to find a way home. The consulate finally helped us obtain tickets but the only thing available was Business Class and the shock of the sticker price lingers on. We got home but our attempts to get Aerflot to return our money on our unused tickets was for naught. I guess we really didn’t have time to see much of the town on that visit.
A more recent cruise ship stop provided us with a tour of the countryside and we still didn’t see downtown Helsinki. This trip I took the shuttle into downtown and found just another large city that wasn’t very pretty. My search for an internet café took me to the train station where everything always is within a stone’s throw. A few well placed questions and a found the internet café; a free facility run by three young bright people who made using their machines the simplest thing since learning to brush your teeth. After I used the free time to clean up my overloaded email, I found a post office and mailed some letters, bought a few post cards and just wandered for a while. The city was bustling and noisy and not nice enough to recommend that it be made a high priority for visiting when in Finland.
The Norwegian Jewel tied up for two full days at St. Petersburg, Russia. Since I have visited St. Petersburg three times in the past and toured the big sites and a few smaller ones, I decided not to leave the ship but rather catch up on a writing project I’ve been working on. Most of the passengers left the ship at least once during our stay to visit The Hermitage, one of the world’s great, museums and art galleries, Peterhof, Peter the Great’s summer palace, The Ballet and the Opera. My visits in 1989 and 1990 took me to all of these places and I’m sure that the Kirillovs will want to take Dottie and me again when we visit in August. Incidentally, one still can’t wander around in Russia without a visa. Dottie and I have ours for our August visit but they are only good for two specific days. If you are with a tour group you are exempt from the Soviet era visa requirement.
Our weather has been changing by the hour. The mornings have started with a drizzle at dawn evolving into mid-day with warm sunshine and puffy white clouds yielding to overcast skies at sunset, which by the way will be at 11:20 PM tonight. The only thing that hasn’t changed is the marvelous ship board food that I have tried to experience in a selective manner. Imagine if you will being served all of your favorite foods and dishes all day long with an automatic ice cream machine around every corner with plates of cookies always within reach. All one needs to do is take a good look at the more seasoned of the travelers on board with broad smiles and girths aplenty and the allure of all these goodies diminishes a tad………but not completely!
Love to all,
Grandpa Bill, Dad, Bill and Mr. Berck
Swedes will tell you that Stockholm is Europe’s most beautiful capital. By my observation after three visits, they may be right. But then, I haven’t visited all of Europe’s capital cities. Stockholm is unique in that it is built on fourteen small islands. As the city grew over the centuries, the locals just built a bridge to another island and planted more homes and business buildings. Nearly a third of the city is devoted to parks. Squares and airy tree lined boulevards, along with water ways that seem to be everywhere, do make Stockholm different and quite handsome. Yet the city is a bustling metropolis with glass and steel skyscrapers everywhere but all within a five minute walk from twisting medieval streets and water side promenades.
The Gamia Stan district, situated on the island of Stadsholmen, is Stockholm’s old medieval town that emerged in the 13th century and is home to the present Royal Palace with areas open to the public and a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon on weekdays. The Royal Palace is one of the largest royal castles in the world. It contains 680 rooms and is till in use by the royal family. A Stone wall nearby, built in 1250 AD, gave the city its characteristic shape of a heart. The Stork Yrkan cathedral, located in the oldest quarter of the city, was built in 1279 and is used for royal weddings, baptisms and coronations and open to the public.
During our day in port, I gathered a map from the greeters on the dock and headed into town. Since this would be my first stop in four during the next month, I decided I needed first to find an ATM to get some Swedish Kronor, second find a post office to buy stamps and mail some letters, and third to find an internet café to catch up on whatever might be in my lap top. The first two were easy, the last impossible. I asked several people along my route where I could find each of my destinations. All were helpful with the first two but only one had a possibility for me to follow. The suggestion was made that there might be an internet café at the ferry terminal that I had past on my walk.
I returned to the ferry terminal to find no internet café. What I did find was a snack shop that displayed a beer I had never heard of before. The shop had some outside tables where I could watch the terminal traffic flow by so I sat myself down in a sunny spot and enjoyed my Swedish Beer, this time a half liter. The people flowing off of the Helsinki Ferry reminded me that a guide had talked about the advantages Swedes gained by taking the ferry to Helsinki, Finland to do most of their shopping. The cost of the one hour ferry ride was more than compensated by the significant difference in prices on almost everything imaginable. Everyone off loading from the ferry was loaded down with big plastic bags, ratty looking suitcases on wheels and push carts. One couple that stopped to rest in front of my table was pushing a heavy duty hand truck loaded with cases of canned goods and beer. The load was almost more than the mad could handle. The lady in the twosome had a thirty inch suitcase on wheels that bulged to the point that it looked like it might explode. By their antics and equipment I guessed that their quick trip to Helsinki was a common occurrence. I recalled that the guide also told us that laws regarding the public consumption of alcohol are very strict in Sweden. For that reason many folks use the ferry to Helsinki as a conveyance to party time.
The weather for the most part has been sunny and almost warm. I wore a wool shirt into town today and it would have been perfect except that I am a vigorous walker and I could have gone with something lighter. A brisk wind for the last couple of days has made it uncomfortable for my fellow passengers to sun bathe, but they do it anyway. After lunch today I stripped to my bathing suit and basked in the sun sans breeze. Luckily I woke from a short nap and covered up. The warm sunshine that lulled me to sleep was already beginning to do its work on my freckled skin. A few more quikies in the sun like today and I’ll look like a real sun worshipper.
Those who enjoy sunlight would really enjoy the Baltic Sea in June. Official sunrise today, according to the ship’s bulletin, was 3:37 AM with sunset scheduled for 10:04 PM. As we travel eastward and more to the north the days will be even longer. I recall the pleasure my Russian friends had during a trip in 1989 when they took me out on a river boat at Leningrad ( now St. Petersburg) at midnight to show me that you could read a newspaper by the “midnight sun”. I could.
The Norwegian Jewel sailed away from the Stockholm pier with no bands playing, no serpentines floating down from joyful passengers, as a matter of fact, not a single soul on the dock once the landing lines were released. In the silence of the moment, broken only by the ships deep horn sounding its farewell, a sky full of seagulls appeared as if on cue. The gulls soared, dived and squawked as if the local chamber of commerce had hired them to gull lull us back to the dock to spend some more money with local merchants. We’ve all seen the spectacle of gulls following fishing boats into shore knowing full well that the gulls were there to feed off of the remains of fish cleaning. I looked over the side of the ship to see if staff was feeding but saw nothing of the sort. I could only conclude that the gulls simply liked us……….they really liked us!
Helsinki, Finland was our next port of call. My vivid memories of my past visit to Helsinki was one that remembered a quiet water front scene with blonde teenagers hanging with friends all looking wholesome and neat. It was evident from this visit that my limited vision related to the area where Dee and I stayed following a visit to Russia in 1990. Actually, the visit was marred by the fact that our Soviet visas were not returned to us when we left Moscow for Helsinki. Our intent was to return to Moscow to catch our “paid for” flight back to New York. When we arrived at Helsinki we discovered our lack of visas and immediately tried to phone Troitsk for help from our friends. Soviet telephones were never known to work very well and we never made contact. I spent most of our three day visit scurrying around trying to find a way home. The consulate finally helped us obtain tickets but the only thing available was Business Class and the shock of the sticker price lingers on. We got home but our attempts to get Aerflot to return our money on our unused tickets was for naught. I guess we really didn’t have time to see much of the town on that visit.
A more recent cruise ship stop provided us with a tour of the countryside and we still didn’t see downtown Helsinki. This trip I took the shuttle into downtown and found just another large city that wasn’t very pretty. My search for an internet café took me to the train station where everything always is within a stone’s throw. A few well placed questions and a found the internet café; a free facility run by three young bright people who made using their machines the simplest thing since learning to brush your teeth. After I used the free time to clean up my overloaded email, I found a post office and mailed some letters, bought a few post cards and just wandered for a while. The city was bustling and noisy and not nice enough to recommend that it be made a high priority for visiting when in Finland.
The Norwegian Jewel tied up for two full days at St. Petersburg, Russia. Since I have visited St. Petersburg three times in the past and toured the big sites and a few smaller ones, I decided not to leave the ship but rather catch up on a writing project I’ve been working on. Most of the passengers left the ship at least once during our stay to visit The Hermitage, one of the world’s great, museums and art galleries, Peterhof, Peter the Great’s summer palace, The Ballet and the Opera. My visits in 1989 and 1990 took me to all of these places and I’m sure that the Kirillovs will want to take Dottie and me again when we visit in August. Incidentally, one still can’t wander around in Russia without a visa. Dottie and I have ours for our August visit but they are only good for two specific days. If you are with a tour group you are exempt from the Soviet era visa requirement.
Our weather has been changing by the hour. The mornings have started with a drizzle at dawn evolving into mid-day with warm sunshine and puffy white clouds yielding to overcast skies at sunset, which by the way will be at 11:20 PM tonight. The only thing that hasn’t changed is the marvelous ship board food that I have tried to experience in a selective manner. Imagine if you will being served all of your favorite foods and dishes all day long with an automatic ice cream machine around every corner with plates of cookies always within reach. All one needs to do is take a good look at the more seasoned of the travelers on board with broad smiles and girths aplenty and the allure of all these goodies diminishes a tad………but not completely!
Love to all,
Grandpa Bill, Dad, Bill and Mr. Berck
Thursday, July 3, 2008
July 4 2008
4 July 2008
Happy Fourth of July from the Baltic Sea,
The Norwegian Jewel has made her ports of call and is now headed back to Dover to disembark and pick up a new bunch of eager travelers. It’s amazing how slow twelve days can be for those of us who have it to do all over again and how fast they pass for those who are on their annual vacations. This cruise, to-date, has been a new experience for me. “Cruising Free Style” the new Norwegian Cruise Lines motto, seems to be successful because a whole new kind of traveler is evident on this cruise. For the past four nights in a row, Marty and I have been seated next to a couple with a child under the age of three. All of my cruising in the past has been void of small children with only an occasional teenage grand child on board. The average age of adults on board has dropped markedly as well, with literally dozens of young couples in their twenties ever present. The oldsters are still around but not as I’ve known before.
In fairness, regarding the babies next to our table at dinner, the dining room staff recognizes Marty and me as “enhancement staff” and not prone to complain about inconveniences as expected from people who pay the big bucks for the trip.
The younger passengers, especially those with children, very often are Europeans as defined by the voices overheard in elevators and dining rooms. There seems to be a large contingent of Spaniards on board and another large group from various South American countries. The Spanish is easy to identify and sometimes understand. I’ve encountered quite a few Eastern Europeans whose languages are more difficult to identify. Once again, my past travels have encountered many folks from the British Isles and a significantly large number from Germany but not any significant numbers from elsewhere.
Although the make-up of my fellow passengers has change, the ports of call are familiar sites that I have visited previously and the Norwegian Jewel is quite different from other ships I have known. Everything is bigger, or at least seems that way. Since most of my cruises in the past have been on smaller ships, like the Marco Polo now decommissioned, with a passenger maximum of about 800, this ship carries about 2000 more passengers. In the evenings there are always several hundred others heading in the direction I travel, or at least it seems that way.
The passenger make-up is not only younger but perhaps a little less sophisticated. I passed a man of about my age a few mornings ago who came to breakfast in his bib overalls and John Deere cap over a loud Hawaiian shirt. There seem to be more plump little ladies who wear their purse strap around their necks diagonally threaded between the bumps in their shirts and others who wear their over stuffed fanny packs around their middles in front creating a kind of extended front bumper handy in crowds. All of the above are wearing huge smiles and that’s what it’s all about. Most of the above seem to prefer eating in the buffet at some ungodly hour like 5:00 PM and rarely are they seen at any of the venues after dinner that serve up a variety of music and drinks to enhance the evening. They do help provide a full house at the early variety show each evening and clap loudly for the performers and laugh uncontrollably at the comedians.
Our last stop at Tallinn, Estonia was marvelous. Marty, who has made the stop a half dozen times, acted as tour guide as we walked from the ship to Toompea, the “old town” inTallinn. The old town is divided into Lower Town and Upper Town with the buildings in Lower Town dating back to the Middle Ages. A fire in 1684 pretty much leveled the top of the hill so things there are much younger. Both Upper and Lower towns feature winding cobblestone streets that provide a flavor that is hard not to enjoy. The Upper Town was traditionally inhabited by the German aristocracy while the Lower Town was home to burghers and artisans. The name Toompea is the name of the hill named after the Cathedral at the top of the hill. The Germans called the hill Boomberg or Cathedral Hill.
The Cathedral of the Holy Virgin was mentioned in writings as early as 1223 AD and is the oldest church in Estonia. Originally, the German aristocracy used the church. It was only in 1927 that an Estonian congregation was formed. After the fire of 1684 destroyed the church, the King of Sweden ordered that it be rebuilt and donated money for this purpose. The new church was completed in 1686.
So now I’ve mentioned Germans and Swedes and one might wonder what is happening to Estonia. The history of the country is one in which each of their neighbors from time to time decided to invade and conquer. The country and Tallinn, its capital, was first inhabited in the tenth century. Its excellent harbor and location made neighbors envious. In 1219 the Danish invaded and took control. After 100 years they got tired of constant rebellions and sold Estonia to the Germans. After a couple of centuries the Swedes came and then the Russians conquered the country. Estonia declared its first independence in 1918 which lasted until 1940 and the Soviet occupation, followed by the Nazi occupation the year after and the second Soviet occupation in 1944. The Republic of Estonia has enjoyed its freedom at the fullest for the past 16 years when the Soviet regime fell into pieces and a totally new future opened up for many ex Soviet Republics.
Side by side with the Old Town is the New Town with an active business community, an ultra modern mall and wide boulevards with bustling traffic, busses, trolley cars and all the accoutrements of modern life. As you can probably guess, I recommend Tallinn as a definite “must see” for the Baltic visitor.
The next few days “at sea” will provide some time for bridge, sun bathing, Sudoku wrestling, a newly acquired interest, and quality time in one of the many hot tubs on the twelfth floor. It’s a tough life, but somebody has to do it.
My love to all,
Grandpa Bill, Dad, Bill and Mr. Berck
Happy Fourth of July from the Baltic Sea,
The Norwegian Jewel has made her ports of call and is now headed back to Dover to disembark and pick up a new bunch of eager travelers. It’s amazing how slow twelve days can be for those of us who have it to do all over again and how fast they pass for those who are on their annual vacations. This cruise, to-date, has been a new experience for me. “Cruising Free Style” the new Norwegian Cruise Lines motto, seems to be successful because a whole new kind of traveler is evident on this cruise. For the past four nights in a row, Marty and I have been seated next to a couple with a child under the age of three. All of my cruising in the past has been void of small children with only an occasional teenage grand child on board. The average age of adults on board has dropped markedly as well, with literally dozens of young couples in their twenties ever present. The oldsters are still around but not as I’ve known before.
In fairness, regarding the babies next to our table at dinner, the dining room staff recognizes Marty and me as “enhancement staff” and not prone to complain about inconveniences as expected from people who pay the big bucks for the trip.
The younger passengers, especially those with children, very often are Europeans as defined by the voices overheard in elevators and dining rooms. There seems to be a large contingent of Spaniards on board and another large group from various South American countries. The Spanish is easy to identify and sometimes understand. I’ve encountered quite a few Eastern Europeans whose languages are more difficult to identify. Once again, my past travels have encountered many folks from the British Isles and a significantly large number from Germany but not any significant numbers from elsewhere.
Although the make-up of my fellow passengers has change, the ports of call are familiar sites that I have visited previously and the Norwegian Jewel is quite different from other ships I have known. Everything is bigger, or at least seems that way. Since most of my cruises in the past have been on smaller ships, like the Marco Polo now decommissioned, with a passenger maximum of about 800, this ship carries about 2000 more passengers. In the evenings there are always several hundred others heading in the direction I travel, or at least it seems that way.
The passenger make-up is not only younger but perhaps a little less sophisticated. I passed a man of about my age a few mornings ago who came to breakfast in his bib overalls and John Deere cap over a loud Hawaiian shirt. There seem to be more plump little ladies who wear their purse strap around their necks diagonally threaded between the bumps in their shirts and others who wear their over stuffed fanny packs around their middles in front creating a kind of extended front bumper handy in crowds. All of the above are wearing huge smiles and that’s what it’s all about. Most of the above seem to prefer eating in the buffet at some ungodly hour like 5:00 PM and rarely are they seen at any of the venues after dinner that serve up a variety of music and drinks to enhance the evening. They do help provide a full house at the early variety show each evening and clap loudly for the performers and laugh uncontrollably at the comedians.
Our last stop at Tallinn, Estonia was marvelous. Marty, who has made the stop a half dozen times, acted as tour guide as we walked from the ship to Toompea, the “old town” inTallinn. The old town is divided into Lower Town and Upper Town with the buildings in Lower Town dating back to the Middle Ages. A fire in 1684 pretty much leveled the top of the hill so things there are much younger. Both Upper and Lower towns feature winding cobblestone streets that provide a flavor that is hard not to enjoy. The Upper Town was traditionally inhabited by the German aristocracy while the Lower Town was home to burghers and artisans. The name Toompea is the name of the hill named after the Cathedral at the top of the hill. The Germans called the hill Boomberg or Cathedral Hill.
The Cathedral of the Holy Virgin was mentioned in writings as early as 1223 AD and is the oldest church in Estonia. Originally, the German aristocracy used the church. It was only in 1927 that an Estonian congregation was formed. After the fire of 1684 destroyed the church, the King of Sweden ordered that it be rebuilt and donated money for this purpose. The new church was completed in 1686.
So now I’ve mentioned Germans and Swedes and one might wonder what is happening to Estonia. The history of the country is one in which each of their neighbors from time to time decided to invade and conquer. The country and Tallinn, its capital, was first inhabited in the tenth century. Its excellent harbor and location made neighbors envious. In 1219 the Danish invaded and took control. After 100 years they got tired of constant rebellions and sold Estonia to the Germans. After a couple of centuries the Swedes came and then the Russians conquered the country. Estonia declared its first independence in 1918 which lasted until 1940 and the Soviet occupation, followed by the Nazi occupation the year after and the second Soviet occupation in 1944. The Republic of Estonia has enjoyed its freedom at the fullest for the past 16 years when the Soviet regime fell into pieces and a totally new future opened up for many ex Soviet Republics.
Side by side with the Old Town is the New Town with an active business community, an ultra modern mall and wide boulevards with bustling traffic, busses, trolley cars and all the accoutrements of modern life. As you can probably guess, I recommend Tallinn as a definite “must see” for the Baltic visitor.
The next few days “at sea” will provide some time for bridge, sun bathing, Sudoku wrestling, a newly acquired interest, and quality time in one of the many hot tubs on the twelfth floor. It’s a tough life, but somebody has to do it.
My love to all,
Grandpa Bill, Dad, Bill and Mr. Berck
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